Merciless Rigamarole
 
              Sweat poured down my back as I clutched my 60-pound ski bag in a frantic bear hug. Our subway stop was next. But between me and the doors to Tokyo Station stood at least a dozen people, all carefully avoiding eye contact.
I looked up at Max, who had strategically scored a place next to the exit. He nodded toward the doors and mouthed “we’re next.” I shrugged, unsure how I’d be able to extricate myself from the subway car. I kicked myself for bringing two pairs of skis. We had decided to ski all day at Happo One in Hakuba before departing for Tokyo—now we were hitting Shinjuku right at 6 p.m., peak rush hour.
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